Bangkok to Liverpool

Last day! Screaming hangover from hell from the Long Island Iced Teas. All ideas of a day trip to Ayutthaya out of the window. Eat loads of fruit and eat three muffins from Suk 11's excellent breakfast selection.

Decide to go to the KSR. Get skytrain and river taxi again. Sit in a couple of bars and watch Sesame Street for a while. KSR is one way, a policeman sits by his bike and gives tickets out every two minutes until he is bored. Bare chested english drink beer, loud israelis slsp each other on the back. Hippies sell handbags and maps. Expats rub tiger balm on themselves and inhale Vicks like its something new. Have a couple of M125's to try and come round.

Remember about the roti shop round the corner. Lovely chicken massiman and roti.

Jump back on river taxi and all the way to Nonthaburi. Wander round buy some fruit and back to Suk.

Really just killing time now and camp out at Cheap Charlis until 20:30 and get taxi to Don Muang. 'How much you want to pay?' 'Just put the the meter on' 'No' The stupid thing is the price I actually negotiated was less than the meterd fare and the tip I would have given. So he got 240baht instead of the 300 he would have got if he had been straight.

Chiang Rai to Bangkok

The extremely pleasant staff at Ben Guesthouse gave us a lift to Chiang Rai airport which is 10km from town in their pickup for the 08:20 flight to Bangkok. A quick coffee and swift boarding for the one hour fifteen minute Air Asia flight .

Arrived at Domestic Terminal and joined the taxi queue of about four people. Turn left out of domestic arrivals and 50 meters to your left is the same taxi rank as international arrivals.

Tell the person in the booth where you are going and take the ticket which you give to the driver. Taxi to Sukhumvit Soi 11 was 150 baht on meter and 70 baht expressway charges plus 50 baht airport charge.

Checked into Suk 11 about 11:00. Single room with AC 500 baht. The thing I like about Suk 11 is the age range of the peolple who stay there. It is not a preserve of the 18-25 backpackers but a good mixture of people staying for many different reasons.

Had lunch at Yeung Lee on Sukhumvit on the corner. This place was her 22 years ago when i first visited bangkok as a 22 year old. It has not changed one bit and the duck on steamed rice it still the best i have had anywhere. One plate of this and a large Singha was 140 baht. bargain.

Took the BTS Skytrain from Nana to Saphin Taskin (single journey ticket 35 baht) and then the orange flag boat (13 baht) to Ratchawongse (Pier 5) for a wander round chinatown. Walk straight on to the traffic lights turn right and then just wander around the alleys. Good Sui mai for 3 baht each and nice Har Gow (Pork dumplings) for about 6-7 baht.

Back the same way to Suk 11 for a freshen up then a few beers at Cheap Charlies and then eat at Mrs Balbirs an Indian Restaurant on Soi 11/1 which has been recommended in many guide books. I suspect it has changed hands, I found it expensive and dull.

Few long Island Iced Teas at the cocktail cart outside Suk 11 and to bed

Houay Xai to Chiang Khong to Chiang Rai

Up early and a couple of Lao Coffees later its border crossing time. The border crossing in half way down the main street. This is probably one of the easiest (lax) crossings you could do. Hand your passport in at the window and receive it back with an exit stamp in about 30 seconds. You can themn go back into town and spend your remaining kip before jumping in one of the waiting longtail boats to take you across the Mekong to Chiang Khong (5,000 kip – pay on boat).

Thai immigration on the other side is just up the hill. Fill in the arrival card and enter visa free in about two minutes. Wainting songthiews can take you to the bus station for buses to Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai (20 baht per person).

The bus to Chiang Rai was 54 baht and took 3 hours including a stop for axle welding and the rivers lunch. We arrive at about 13:00 at the bus station and walk the ten minutes or so to Ben Guesthouse. Again this is a recommendation from Travelfish which comes up trumps. It is in the quiet area of town about 10-15 minutes walk from the night market. It is an old teak house with incredibly friendly staff. R=Rooms 150-300 baht depending on fan/AC/shared/ensuite. A very relaxing place after three days of travelling.

Houay Xai

A sleepy border town however unlike Pakbeng it does not seem a trap. Had planned to stay at the Sabaydee Guesthouse however it was full. Tried the Oudomaphone across the road that was about the best accommodation I stayed in Laos (US$5, 200 baht). The rooms were tiled, had hot water showers and were immaculately clean. Recommended.

We were all completely knackered and eat a good Chicken with holy basil and rice at the Riverside Restaurant and I was in bed by 21:30. A very long day.

Tommorow is the border crossing into Thailand and onto Chiang Rai.

Slowboat (Day 2)

Up at 07:30 and had a quick coffee or two and purchased an overpriced and underfilled sandwich from the waiters come drug dealers at Bounmy Guesthouse. Strolled down to the slowbaoat pier in Pakbeng. Bought a ticket tp Houay Xai (85,000 kip). I ws directed to a much smaller boat than the day before.

Now the yanks were getting twitchy. The planned to get to Chiang mai in Thailand that day. i kept my mouth firmly closed. When asked El Capitane said he did not know when we would arrive at Houay Xai, maybe four or five. I had heard before that the slowboats deliberately dilly dally so everyone misses the border closing at 18:00. I gave him the benefit of the doubt. Everything went fine until about three thirty when the crew decided to stop at every village on the banks of the Mekong for a Beer Lao or two

By 17:00 tempers were becoming frayed and he finally admitted that due to the currents we wouldnt make Hoay Xai until 18:30. However he could drop anyone who wanted to make the crossing off at the speed boat pier and then they could get a tuk tuk at a cost of 5,000 kip each which would get them to lao's immigration in time. The Tuk tuks packed with irrate Americans reached the border at 18:05 - it was shut.

It didn't bother me but this is an obvious ply that fills up guest houses in Houay Xai and andds to the governments coffers in visa overstay charges.

We were not bothered anyhow but its worth knowing if you time poor and have no days left on your visa. They do the trip every day and could easily start at 08:00 or 07:30 and be in plenty of time. The trip took about 10hours

Pakbeng

I have to say that Pakbeng was one of the worst places I have ever satyed in my life. Not the place itself nor the place I stayed (Bounmy Guest House - 150 baht a night and no rats with an excellent restaurant), but just the attitude. If one place gives an indication of what Laos might become, like many other South East Asian countries, this is it.

They have quickly learnt that you are either fresh off he boat from Chiang Khong and like a startled rabbit in a car's headlights or you have come from Luang Prabang and realise you are trapped for the night.

Everything is overpriced and of poor quality. You will be gone in the morning. The waiters and cooks double up as opium and dope dealers. End of Pakbeng rant.

Slowboat (Day 1)

Left Heritage Guest House at about 06:30 to watch the monks walking through town for alms.

It was a sight you probably dont see on such a scale anywhere elsein the world. Cool. Had a couple of black coffees and bought a tuna baguette and some water for the slowboat journey.

Arrived at the pier at about 08:00 and checked in at the ticket booth. Boat left at 09:00. The boat was only about half full and I was glad to see had cushions and a large supply of Beer Laos.

Some people were asking how long in would take from Louang Prabang to Pakbeng. Six hours? Seven hours? Don't believe a word, upstream it takes nine and a half hours. Yes nine and a half hours to Pakbeng.

The journey however was pleasant with great scenery, water buffalo and elephants along the banks. We arrived at Pakbeng in near darkness at 18:15. Not a bad day and had met some interesting people and some complete bores to.

Louang Prabang (Part 2)

A very lazy day just wandering around the old city and walking along the banks of the Mekong. This really is beautiful place, very quiet and relaxed. The type of place thats make you think "I could live here"

I went to the Royal Palace Museum a shrine to the moarchy which was overthrown in the late 60's by the new regime. It is s fascinating insight into the royal era of Louang Prabangs history in an amazing building decorated with japanese glass murals.

Visited a couple of Wats.

Took a boat to the other side of the mekong (10,000 kip) and had fried rice with beef at avery nice no-name restairant for 8,000 kip. Great views over the mekong back to Louang Prabang.

Met up with a couple of people early evening and went to one of the oudoor restaurants at the junction of the night clothes and food market. They have a large assortment of vegetarian stuff with rice and noodles for 5,000 kip a plate (add 10,000 for a barbecued chicken breast or a whole fish).

Ended up in a bar by the Palace (Naos Place) with a couple of guys one Japenese one English had a few beers and a Lao Lao and back to Heritage House for a sleep. The whole of Louang Prabang is asleep by 22:30 so its not exacltly a party town but in some ways thats what makes it so pleasant.

Plan to go to Hmong village, organise slowboat and visit waterfalls today.

Louang Prabang

The day started of at the bus station on the old airstrip. Bought a ticket from the station for the VIP bus to Louang Prabang. Big coach type bus so plenty of legroom. Cost $7. Better than the minibus I reckon and takes about 1 hour longer. Left at 10:30. It is the only bus I have been on where the driver was crippled and appeared to be paralysed donw his left hand side. Oh well!

Stopped several time for toulet and sick stops and for lunch. We had chickens under our table. vian Flu eat your heart out.

Arrived at bus staion about 3km outside town. Tul Tuk into town 5,000 kip per person (they want 10,000 but take 5,000 without much hassle.

Drops of by post office on main drag. Checked into Heritage House in centre on old city and paid ten dollars for location more than anything else. It is quaint with little green shuttered windows.

Was just about to take a wander and met Phil who I bumped into in Nong Khai. We went to a barbecue place on the mekong with some of his friends from Vang Vieng.

The barbecue was great buffalo, beef and pork that you gook yourself over charcoal on your table on a grill surrounded by a moat that you fill with garlic flavoued stock and cook your vegetable s, noodles, eggs etc in. Whole thing for two 25,000 kip recommended.

Had a couple of beers and decidedto go to a local lao disco miles out of town. My oh my what a ball. The musidwas a sort of Thai technopop and everyone looked about 10 years old but boy was it rocking. Unfortunately it closed at 11.30 because of National Day today. Back home and tucked upby 12:00.

Going to take a walk around Louang Prabang today.

Cheers

Vang Vieng (Part 2)

The tubing was a laugh, very relaxing and beautiful scenery. Whole thing costs US$3.5 plus one dollar extra if you want a dry bag for camera and money. Most of the bars along the river have swings, zip lines and jumping areas to hurl yourself off. All obviously sell Beer Lao and some offer free Lao Lao (very dangerouus). Whole trip actually took more like 4.5 to5 hours with all the stop. Great fun though as long as you don't get to drunk and burn to a cinder.

In the eveningwent fora pizza with Alan and Olivia who I met floating by. Had pizza fordinner (well it is VV after all) Can't remember the place but one of the roads off Pizza Street, hence they were edible. About 25,000 kip for a Calzone.

Was fairly knackered and went to bed aout 22:00.

Got up erly again and had more noodle soup. I have had enough of eggs andbaguttes now. Took a Green Ecotours trip (at main intersection on Pizza Street) for US$15. There all much about the same price anyway.

The trip was basically 09:30 - 17.00. About 60 percent of it Kayaking, 30 percent trekking and going through two caves and 10 percent transport. Its well worth it though and you even get to stop at the Organic Mulberry Tea Farm, although they appeared to be out of Mulberry Shakes but had all the others, odd for a place thats sole raison d'etre is Mulberry production.

Just had a shower and a Beer Lao at Sunset Bar (straight on over the bamboo bridge). I find it more relaxed than the Island Bar.

Will find somewhere that sells Laos food tonight, not as easy as youwould imagine here.

Bus to Louang Prabang tommorow US$7.5 and departs 09:30 and takes 6- 6.50 hours.

Cheers

Vang Vieng

I am now in Vang Vieng.

A minibus picked me up from the Phone Paseuth Guest House at 10:00 and transfered to another minibus which then did the run along Highway 13 in three hours and fifteen minutes. Not too bad at all.

Some interesting peolpe on the bus non more so than the German bloke with his thai rent boy. How can anyone be so thick skinned to thing in normal to take your rent boy on a tourist bus? Arrived at Vang Vieng just after 13:00.

Had a quick look at travelfih website witha British and Australian couple and decided on Riverside Bungalows. The accommodatio ranges from simple huts with a fan an mossie net for US$3.80 up to large rooms with AC and ensuite for $12. I plumped for the simple hut mainly because you don't really need AC at this time of year. The huts have spectacular views over the karsts and are away from the main drag with its pizza reataurants showing endless re-runs of Friends and selling happy and happy happy pizza. It is a bit of a backpacker centre but it is quite easy to avoid most of the 'scene' if you make a little effort.

Overall I reckon it is well worth it.

Last night I eat at Erawan about the poshesst place in VV. I went mad and ordered steak, french fries, green salad, baguette, glass of red wine and a Lao Lao lemonade. The bill was 85,000 kip (four pounds 25 pence) and this really is splasing out. Lunch was noodle soup with pork down by the river in one of the little shacks in the picture.

Today i am going tubing (US$4) they pick you up in a tuk tuk and drive you 5Km upstream where you launch yourself into the river on a large tractor inner tube and float back downstream back to town. Whole journey take 2.5 to 3 hrs and there are stalls along the way selling Beer Lao.

Going to get some sunblock and look into some trekking, caving and kayaking for tommorow.

Vientienne

The actual place I am have been staying is the Phone Paseuth Guest House it is very central right next to Namphu Square on Pangkham Road. US$15. Very clean and recently renovated by the looks of things.

Saturday night I eat at Le Provencal on Namphu Square and went for pizza, I need a days break from rice and noodles. It was very good with anchovies and olives and spicy sausage. The effects of all the travelling caught up with me and after a few Beer Laos was tucked up in bed at about 22:00.

Sunday woke up at about six a clock and went for a stroll around down by the Mekong but not a lot doing at that time. The laos people seem tohave retained a lot of the beter frenc influences like long lunch hours, siestas and Sunday closing. Founf a cafe open at about 09:00 and sat around drinking Cafe Laos and eating some eggs and baguettes.

Walked to the morning market and on to Patouxai - a large victory arch. From here I jumped a tuk tuk to That Louang, the buddhist stupa and national symbol of Laos.

I forgot to mention that Saturday early evening I got completely lost. Once you get away from the familiar territory of Setthathilat Road, the Mekong and Namphu area it is easy to become disorientated. Once I realised I was lost I just kept on going and mooching around ten hailed a tuk tuk bachk to Namphu for 6,000 kip. I am quite glad I got lost as I saw many things I might not have seen otherwise.

Went for lunch at Sabaydi Restaurant on Setthathilat Road and had Fried noodles wit chicken (15,000 kip). By then it was becoming hot so sat for a couple of hours in Khop Chai Deu on e of the most popular farang bars with a pleasant outdoor patio. Draft Beer Lao 6,000 kip a glass.

Hired a bicycle for a couple of hours in the afternoon and then decided to investigate getting to Vang Vieng on Monday morning. All travel agents sen to do minibuses for about 45,000 - 50,000 kip or $US5. I was going to just get a bus from the bus station but laziness kicked in and I booked with an agent. The minibus leaves at 10:00.

Went back to the hotel about 16:30 for a shower and a change of clothes then set of along the Mekong to find one of the riverside bars for sunset. Its a good walk past all the drinks and food stalls that set up late after noon then eventually you come to a sring of bars. Got chatting to a couple of aussies who taught at a university in Bangkok and were on a short hop over to Laos. They were good to talk to and we had a laugh over a few Beer laos and some Lao Lao.

I eat at NaZim, an Indian place down by the river on the main drag. Mutton curry, nan bread, rice and a large Beer laos for 37,000 kip. It was excellent.

Its now Monday morning and am typing this as i wait for my bus. I hope all of you at home are enjoying your work!

Into Laos

Well it was really simple really.

Hired a bike yesterday morning for 28 baht and had a little peddle west of Nong Khai past the Friendship Bridge out into the countryside. Boy oh boy it was hot. I have not lost the ability to ride a bike but breathing at the same time is not easy. The paddies were green and the little stops for Chang refreshing.

Got back to Mutmee for lunch and had Tom Yam and more Chang.

Headed out east in the afternoon to the Sculpture Park about a half hour ride. All sorts of statues Buddah, Ganesh you name it he modelled it.

Back to Nong Khai and Mutmee for prawn curry and rice.

is little cheese in Thailand Gromit.

Attempted the evening cruise along the Mekong but not enough takers (10 minimum) so had to drink some Sang Som, fortinately some people fro Burnley helped me finish the bottle..

Early to bed and actually learned how to work the IPod speaker system I bought whilst bored in Manchester airport.

Getting to Laos

Chicken Soup and Rice up at corner place - 35 baht. Tuk Tuk to bus station 40 baht. Get on bus 10 baht, get off bus. Immigration stamping thing. Get on bus 10 baht (groundhog day) get off bus. Fill in form and have 30 dollars ready plus one extra because its a Saturday. Hand all in at IN window (you open window they wont, stare as much as you want) They will then shut window. Move two meters to right to OUT window. Wait until window opened and your name (Mr Ben) is called. Get in big queue. Receive lots of stamps in passport and proceed to Laos.

Head left and drink Beer Laos.

Taxi to Mali Namphu GH. 100 baht. Did you confirm your reservation Sir? Go nextdoor and check in to different place. It's one think I hate about Asia, everyone assumes you won't show.

Lazy lunch. Now get this. Broccolli Soup, baguette, pork steak in red wine jus with real chips made of proper potatoes, mustard, camenbert, coffee and red wine for 7 US dollars.

Going to hire a bike now!

Liverpool to Nong Khai

I had already decided to go straight to Nong Khai rather that stop over in Bangkok. This sounded like a good idea. Little did I know that it would take 22.75 hours from Lime Street to the check in desk at Mutmee Guest House in Nong Khai.

It all started at 09:15 on 23rd November with an 11 pounds 70p return to Manchester Airport. Having succesfully navigated the Fast Track Ticket machine and necking a double Espressso the train left on time.

I only really noticed the fog about St. Helens, it didn't really click until I saw the depatures board. Every other plane, apart from mine to Amsterdam and another to Paris, both Fokker 70's, were on time, but obviously the Fokker has problems with fog that other planes don't. So a 3 hour delay.

Terminal 2 really is the pits one bar - a pseudo french affair "Bar des Voyageurs" staffed entirely by sultry east european staff with an attitude to boot. Kilkenny was the least obnoxious brew at 2 pounds 99 a pint.

The flight eventually departed at about 15:40 which at least meant only two hours in Schipol.

The flight to BKK left on time. The internet check in came up trumps. I reserved seat 21H by the emergency exit with acres of legroom. Thank you "seat finder". Unfortuntely a rather large dutch man had.reserved seat 21I so what I gained in one direction I lost in the other.

The plane landed at Don Muang at 12.07 on Thursday 24th November. I now had a four hour+ wait for the Air Asia flight to Nong Khai.

In the meantime I reaquainted myself with Beer Chang and had a good pork with holy basil and rice at the Silom Village Restaurant.

Air Asia flight left eventually at 17:00 getting to Nong Khai 45 minutes later than scheduled at 18:00. From here a quick 100 baht minibus to Mutmee Guest House (Tickets from Limousine Service Counter by exit to airport)

Had a reservation at Mutmee and checked in to my sigle room at 130baht (less than 2 quid) a night. Was increaddibly tired now but wanted to stay awake until about 22:00. Forced a couple of Beer Chang down and had a large fresh water fish with a coconut cream and chilli sauce. Excellent.

Mutmeee is all it promised to be. A very relaxed guest house with lovly gardens overlooking the Mekong River.

Beakfast today consisted of and omelette and a Laos Coffee.

I am now going to hire a bike and cycle along the Mekong for a few hours then take a short river cruise tonight.

Bangkok to Vientiane (Redux)

Bus

OK get the bus from the Northern Bus Station (Morchit), don’t try and walk from the Skytrain stop. Get a cab or get a cab all the way there.

Bangkok – Nong Khai - Vientiane

Bangkok. – Nong Khai:
Transport Co. Thailand AC Bus (
545baht, 614kms, 10hrs, Departs: 20.30,21.00, Arrives 06:30, 07.00

Nong Khai -Vientiane
Transport Co. Thailand AC Bus/Lao PDR bus

07.30 Nong Khai Vientianne 30 baht TC Thailand
10.30 Nong Khai Vientianne 30 baht TC Lao PDR
15.00 Nong Khai Vientianne 30 baht TC Thailand
18.00 Nong Khai Vientianne 30 baht TC Lao PDR

The Nong Khai - Vientiane route is about 30 kms and will be covered in 30 minutes, excluding the time that will be spent at the border crossing.

Train

Bangkok – Nong Khai - Vientiane

Bangkok – Nong Khai

Get yourself to Hualamphong train station in Bangkok (Taxi or skytrain/subway)

Train number: 137 * 133 77 69 *
Bangkok (Hualamphong) depart: 05:50 18:30 20:00 20:45
Bangkok Airport (Don Muang) depart: 06:42 19:25 20:45 21:32
Ayutthaya depart: 07:26 20:11 21:21 22:11
Nong Khai arrive: 17:30 07:20 06:00 08:55

Fares about 500 baht or less depending on class, speed and air.

See here

Then bus as above.

Flying

Bangkok – Udon Thani – Vientiane

Its taxi to Don Muang time. About 250 -300 baht including toll fees.

Bangkok – Udon Thani

You can buy your tickets online at Nok Air or Air Asia online or at 7 Elevens, ATMs and airport counter service.

Typical fares on Nok Air at the end of this month are 1450 baht. Air Asia run at about 1250 baht

Flight times

Nok Air

Depart: 06:00Arrive: 07:05

Depart: 12:20Arrive: 13:25

Depart: 17:40Arrive: 18:45

Air Asia

Depart: 16:15
Arrive: 17:15

Udon Thani – Vientiane

Buses (timetables adjusted to meet planes)

07.00 Udon Thani Vientianne 80 baht TC Thailand
09.30 Udon Thani Vientianne 80 baht TC Lao PDR
15.00 Udon Thani Vientianne 80 baht TC Thailand
17.00 Udon Thani Vientianne 80 baht TC Lao PDR

The Udon Thani - Vientiane route is about 80 kms and will be covered in a little more than an hour, excluding the time that will be spent at the border crossing

All buses stop at Nong Khai

Out of planning into real time - two weeks to go!

Panic! Hair too long! Not enough time!

Two weekends to go. Next weekend off to Center Parcs in Cumbria with about six kids and eight adults. That does Friday midday to Monday midday in. Archery and the Green Room?

Still need to buy trousers and a couple of shirts. At work all week trying to find sites in Liverpool to re-cycle other peoples rubbish.

Hair cut Wednesday?

Match on Saturday - Portsmouth at Anfield.

Need to buy wall tiles, flooring and lights for bathroom. Marc doing bathroom whilst away. Sunday ?
Wash clothes.

Pack - what?

I have always loved this. Nearly as much as Chanchao's driving guide to Thailand

"Dear Fellow Travellers...

Something tells me I'll catch some flack for this, but after making fifteen trips to Asia in as many years,this is my packing checklist. Yes, it's a lot of stuff. Yes, I travel "heavy". Yes, I'm TOTALLY self sufficient, and prepared for ANY kind of travel situation! I never bring all of these things, but I always bring most of them, especially the lighter items. I figure: if it's small and doesn't weigh much, what the heck --- I might as well bring it since I'm taking all that other junk anyway.

Wash up and Medical: Shaving cream, razor, extra blades, deoderant, hand soap, washcloth, headband, shampoo, comb, toothbrush, toothpaste, toothpicks, floss, vitamins, aspirin, cold pills, Sudafed, nasal spray, swimmer’s ear drops, eyedrops, eyemask, Melatonin nail clipper, tweezers, Q-tips, condoms, etc. Imodium bandages, Neosporin sunscreen, lip balm, mosquito repellent, insect sting reliever, small padlock, tie-wraps, drain stopper (for sinks and bathtubs without one!)

Miscellaneous: Daypack, umbrella, compass (OK, you’re walking in Bangkok and the sign says Ratchadamri Road, but which direction are you going?) Nylon cord, adhesive/sealing tape (Always gets used up), ziplock bags, big plastic bags, knife, fork, spoon, chopsticks (option), Swiss army knife, mini scissors, flashlight with extra batteries, bulbs, 2 or 3 lighters, candles laundry soap, vegetable scrubber (for scrubbing clothes & cleaning shoes!), toilet paper, bath towel, loufa (it weighs nothing and will scrape away that ground in backpacker dirt!), mosquito net (option), inflatable pillow (option), sleeping sheet (option), (a bedsheet sewn up like a sleeping bag; good for warm climates and good when your guesthouse bed is grungy!), immersion heater, camping pot (option), instant food, snack foods (option), particle mask (for walking in Bangkok!)

Reading/Writing: Zipper envelope with pens, pencils, envelopes, paper mini world atlas, address book, visa photos, extra business/personal cards

Books: Reading books, guidebooks, local maps, songbook

Gifts/Show & Tell: Little presents, photos of self, home, family, etc. postcards, old stamps (a cheap bagful from a collector's shop --- light, cheap educational gift for kids!)

Valuables and carry on: Passport, traveler’s checks (with seperate list of numbers), ATM card, credit cards, personal checks, visa photos, money belt (to wear INSIDE your clothing), cash & local currency , plane tickets, sunglasses (worn at “night” to help beat jet lag on the plane), glasses cas, ear plugs, eye mask, Melatonin (in carry on bag)

Clothes: Nylon pants (great for travelling!), other pants, jeans (option) (not great for travelling), 3-5 prs underwear, 3-5 prs socks, 1-2 pr shorts, 1 swimsuit, 2 T-shirts, 2 good shirts, 1 pr good shoes (option), sports sandals (better than cheap Asian “flip flops”, which are named that because they have no traction --- wear them to the outside toilet at night and when you step into the first puddle, you’ll flip flop right onto your ass!)

Other medical items: (all optional). Flagyl (in case of dysentary), Antibiotics, Dettol, etc. (for first aid; this stuff will kep infections from getting worse in Asia), Moleskin (for trekking; in case of blisters).Thermometer, Acetazolamide (for altitude illness if trekking on high mountains)

Photo: (all optional) Digital SLR camera and camera kit with 25mm lens, flash, batteries. Extra lenses, U/V, Sun, other filters, tripod, beanbag. Mini binoculars

Electronics: (all optional) IPod, MP3 player, shortwave radio, antenna, calculator, mobile phone, all adaptors, telephone extension cord (more for business travel --- sometimes it’s great to have a nice long phone cord in the hotel room), AC adaptors, extension cord, etc. Mosquito zapper & tablets (Like an “electric” mosquito coil; buy it in any Asian department store, it really works)

Hiking/Trekking gear: (all optional) Hiking boots with oil & extra laces (for serious trekking only!), parka, 2-4 prs heavy wool socks and an altimeter "

Vieng Xai

A rather spooky town, Vieng Xai is the living time capsule of a grandiose moment in Lao history: the victorious culmination of a three-decade Communist insurgency that cut the country from 200 years of Thai and French colonialism.

It is also, by any stretch, a ghost town worthy of the Twilight Zone crumbling with vestiges of jingoism and failed pretensions to Soviet grandeur. A very spooky town.

The town's central monument - a prematurely ageing cement statue of a rifle-toting female farmer, a soldier and a worker whose foot rests triumphantly on a bomb marked "USA" - has the flimsy amateur feel of a backdrop in a school play.

Never has a lesser word been said in jest. God bless America.

Weeds and piles of rubbish overrun the courtyard in the boarded-up cultural centre, while the giant circular Party emblem mounted above the centre's entrance is flaking apart, its faded Lao flag barely recognisable and the star on its wreath dangling by a nail.

It's hard to imagine how this loop of streets once merited the distinction "City of Victory", or even just "city", much less that leaders of the Lao revolution envisaged it would become a remote cultural oasis and symbolic cradle of Marxism in Laos.

Of course, these were men who barely saw a full day's sunlight in more than a decade. Then again, maybe this is an apt symbol.

Lying at the base of a limestone mountain range between Xam Neua and the Lao-Vietnamese border at Nam Meo, it was from Vieng Xai that the Lao Communist Party (the Pathet Lao) waged its "30-year struggle" against a succession of coalition governments and US-backed Royal Lao forces that ended in 1975.

For ten years starting in 1963, when relentless US air strikes began showering northern Laos with cluster bombs, Pathet Lao leaders lived in an extensive network of limestone caves, effectively operating a shadow government from a hidden city.

Though farmers spent the war years in and out of the hundreds of caves speckling the town's environs, only five caves make up the official tour of Vieng Xai. Well-preserved, if a bit spartan, the quintet served as the headquarters for the masterminds of the Pathet Lao.

Arrival and after

Tuk tuks generally depart the Sam Neua bus station every half an hour from early morning until about 15:00 or 16:00. The journey costs 7,000 kip per person, and takes about an hour. No guide no hidden city. No money no guide.

Sleep

The modest Vieng Xai hotel: an almost crestfallen guesthouse once in the day built to billet foreign luminaries, though the exiled Lao royal family and their re-education camp-bound followers may have been the Vieng Xai's best customers.

Now looking more like a hospital than a four-star hotel, rooms go for $2-3 and can come with breath-taking views of the limestone mountains and the cluster of Hmong houses next door.

Muang Xing

The town of Muang Xing lies on the river plains of the Nam La to the north-west of Luang Namtha. The town is a historic centre that was formerly an outpost of the Sipsongpanna Empire based in southern Yunnan in China.

The town is home to a number of ethnic minorities as well as lowland Lao, Tai Lue, Thai Neua and Thai Dam you can also find dreadlocked immigrants from Pai (once thought to be extinct). The town of Muang Xing has a number of guesthouses where trekking and hiking trips can be arranged.

In many ways, the lives of people in Muang Xing remain simple and calm, since the 'modern' world does not intrude as much as it does elsewhere - at least, not yet.

People get married at a very young age, many are not highly educated and work in farms. Men work on rice fields and collect wood while the women boil liquor, pick wild plants in the forest with friends, and feed the pigs. Old men do basketry at open-air basements, as the old women feed the chickens and take care of their grandchildren.

Self-reliance seems to be the only way for these people to go, although they do not have much money and things in today's cash economy are far too expensive for them.

Moving On

Tickets to Luang Namtha are bought at a small wooden shack on the opposite side of the road from the market and bus station, just near the post office.

Songtheaw at 08:00 – 2 hours (15,000 kip) also at 09:30, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00; 15:00 and whenever

Sleeping

Guesthouses to try are Daen Neua Guesthouse and Phou Iu Guesthouse .

Things to do

Go to the market, hire a bike, trek and generally relax etc

Luang Namtha

Located in the northern part of Laos, Luang Namtha Province shares its north-western border with Myanmar and its north-eastern border with China.

It is an interesting place to visit from an environmental, social, cultural and historical point of view and has become something of a centre for sustainable cultural and eco-tourism over the last few years. The forests are dense, and cover near 99% of the protected area.

Luang Namtha has a large and diverse range of ethnic groups, many of whom still live traditional life styles. The main ethnic groups in the area are Tai Yuan, Black Red and White Tai, Tai Lue, Khmu, Rok, Ahka, Lanten, Mien and Hmong. Most of the ethnic handicraft traditions particularly weaving are alive and well.

Getting to Luang Namtha town and away

Airport: 5km south of town. Tuk-tuk’s cost 3-5,000kip/person.
Lao Airlines Office: South of the town, on the Main Road near the bank. Opening hours Monday to Friday 08:00 -12.00, 13.00-16:00, Saturday 08:00-12:00. no tickets issued at the airport. US$ cash only. To Vientiane: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 13:00 $80. To Houay Xai: Monday and Friday 12:00 $41. To Luang Prabang: Monday and Friday 10:00 $37

Bus station: South of the town, two blocks west. The buses leave here at 08:00 but after that time, it all depends on the number of passengers and the availability of buses. During the rainy season, only vehicles, which have enough power, can be used and the fare may be raised.

To Udonxai: 21,000k 08:00, 11:00 4hrs
To Luang Prabang: 08:30-09:30
To Muang Xinh: 15,000k 08.0-15:00 many trucks, 1.5 hrs.
To Boten: 15,000k 8:00, 11:00, 13:00, 2.0hrs
To Xiangkok: 15,000k 3.5hrs
To Houay Xai: 65,000k 8:00 8-10 hr, very bad road. There is a small village between Louang Namtha and Houay Xaii, called Vieng Phukha, which has two guesthouses (single 10,000k, double 15,000k) and electricity. Fare: Houexai to this village 40,000k and this village to Luang Namtha 25,000k

Boat: The boat landing is 6km from the town. It is possible to travel to Houay Xai via Pak Tho. The journey takes two days. The availability of the service is dependant on water level and a certain amount of manana.

Where to stay

Quite a bit of accommodation has sprung up in recent years. The poshest place in town in the well regarded Boat Landing Guest House or for a cheaper alternative maybe have a look at the Gold Source Guest House or the Luang Nam Tha Guest House

Phongsali

Phongsali Province tucked between China, Vietnam and Oudomsay Province in Northern Lao is a beautiful, relatively untouched area of South East Asia. Phou Fa Mountain, the province's landmark, overlooks Phongsali city.

The province is extremely mountainous with elevation 450 m to 1,800 m above sea level.
Twenty eight distinct hill tribes live in Phongsali.

There are no borders open to foreigners between Phongsali and either China or Vietnam at this point, making it a bit of a dead-end destination for travellers and, as such, is relatively unspoiled by farang.

Many of Lao's endangered species, both flora and fauna, find home in Phongsali Province, and the province's 222,000 hectares of protected lands. Hunting for food and medicinal purposes presents the greatest threat to the various animals in the region, whilst slash and burn agriculture threatens some species of trees

Getting there and away

It is possible to reach Phongsali by boat, bus or car, and air.

Various bus routes include:

Direct from Vientiane (via Luang Prabang and Oudomsay, overnight)
From Luang Prabang (via Oudomsay, overnight)
From Oudomsay (depart morning, arrive evening)

The Nam Ou provides boat services to Phongsali with beautiful. From Oudomsay catch a bus to Muang Khua. From there a boat will take you to Hatsa, a 20km truck ride from Phongsali.

Similarly, boat trips can be had from Hatsa to either Muang Khua or to Nong Khiaw. Slow boats and speed boats are available. Slow boats make the journey from Hatsa to Muang Khua in about 5 hours and speed boats make it to Luang Prabang in about 6 hours.

Air transportation from Vientiane and Luang Prabang is also available every Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday. The plane arrives in Bounneua, a 41km bus ride from Phongsali. Bounneua has two buses a day to Phongsali, which are the buses passing through from Oudomsay. They are at approximately 11:30 and 16:00. It is not possible to fly from Phongsali to Luang Prabang directly as the plane returns directly to Vientiane.

Places to stay

In Phongsali try Sensaly Guesthouse and try the noodle soup shop opposite the Agriculture Bank and the Museum.

In Muang Hua try the Nam Ou Guesthouse right on the riverbank