Money, Money, Money

Looks like I will be spending about 10 days in Laos and 5 days in Thailand. My budget for Thailand is £20 a day (1400 baht) and for Laos about £15 per day ($27). This includes all transport and accommodation and food apart from the two internal flights within Thailand I have already booked. This does not include the $30 Laos visa.

The currency in Laos is the Kip and the exchange rate is currently 20,000 kip to the British Pound or about 10,800 to the US dollar. I will take $300 into Laos and change some into Kip as required as the largest note is 5,000 kip. Most large expenses such as accommodation and transport can be paid for in US dollars. Food and drink will be Kip.

I may have overestimated the costs in Laos some people reckon on about $15 a day but best to have some in reserve.

Alternative Route Louang Prabang to Houay Xai

The more I think about it the more tempted I am to give up one day in Vang Viang and not take the “backpacker express” slow boat from Luang Prabang to Houay Xai.

The alternative is to to take an eight hour slowboat up the Nam Ou river to Nong Kiaow/ Muang Ngoi and then overnight at Nong Kiaow. From there it will be overland to Houay Xai via Udomxai. I would probably need to allow three days for this alternative route hence one day less in Vang Viang.

Places to stay in Nong Kiaow that look interesting are Sunset Guesthouse and Sengdao Bungalows and Restaurant

Internal flights in Thailand

Have now booked two internal flights within Thailand both using Thai Air Asia. There are an ever increasing number of low cost no-frills airlines operating in South East Asia.


All of them have English language web pages and most allow the use of European or North American issued Visas or Mastercard credit cards for online booking. Most issue e-tickets.

Thailand
www.airasia.com - AirAsia
www.bangkokair.com - Bangkok Airways
www.nokair.com - Nok Air
www.onetwo-go.com - One-Two-Go
www.orient-thai.com - Orient Thai Airlines
www.pbair.com - PB Air
www.phuketairlines.com - Phuket Airlines
www.thaiair.com - Thai Airways International
www.thaiskyairlines.com - Thai Sky Airlines

Laos
www.laoairlines.com - Lao Airlines

The flights I have booked are:

Thu 24 Nov - Air Asia - Bangkok to Udon Thani departs 16:15
499 baht – (1058 baht including taxes)

Wed 07 Dec – Air Asia – Chiang Rai to Bangkok departs 08:20
499 baht – (1058 baht including taxes)

Itinerary

This is the first attempt at an itinerary for 15 days in Thailand and Laos during November and December 2005.

I am still in two minds as to whether I should miss out Vang Viang entirely and go by boat from Louang Prabang to Nong Khiaw and then overland to Louang Nam Tha and on to Houayxai.

This would undoubtedly be more fun than the slowboat from Louang Prabang to Houayxai and would take about four days (assuming nothing breaks down and there are no sudden downpours) but I also need make sure that I am back in Thailand on Tuesday 06 December at the latest.

Wed 23 Nov Manchester to Bangkok
Thu 24 Nov Bangkok to Nong Khai
Fri 25 Nov Nong Khai
Sat 26 Nov Nong Khai to Vientiane
Sun 27 Nov Vientiane
Mon 28 Nov Vientiane to Vang Viang
Tue 29 Nov Vang Viang
Wed 30 Nov Vang Viang
Thu 01 Dec Vang Viang toLouang Prabang
Fri 02 Dec Louang Prabang
Sat 03 Dec Louang Prabang
Sun 04 Dec Louang Prabang to Pakbek
Mon 05 Dec Pakbek to Houayxai/Chiang Khong
Tue 06 Dec Chiang Khong to Chiang Rai
Wed 07 Dec Chiang Rai to Bangkok
Thu 08 Dec Bangkok to Manchester

Chiang Rai to Bangkok

If all goes to plan (it wont!) it will be time to get down to Bangkok fo the last couple of days of this trip.

I have booked the 08:15 Air Asia flight from Chiang Rai to Bangkok and made a reservation at the venerable Suk 11 for one night.

This gives me a full two days in Bangkok and hopefully a chance to visit some old haunts or just a bit of flexibility should a bus/boat or two break down. The next thing I need to do bring all these ramblings together into some sort of itiniery.

Chiang Khong to Chiang Rai

Although I have been to Chiang Mai several times I have never made it to its little brother Chiang Rai. So I thought a night here would be fun.

In all probability I will get a bus early morning from Chiang Khong to Chaing Rai . I dont really like arriving places in the evening so I think a night in Chiang Khong is probably the best idea.

Not much idea of guesthouses in Chiang Rai but there are plenty maybe try Baan Warabordee Guesthouse or Jitaree Guesthouse.

Travelfish recently recommended Ben Guest House, 4/4 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Rd. Soi 2, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000 Tel. 053 244103

The plan is for one day and night in Chiang Rai then onwards to Bangkok the next day.

Some places I have heard are good arethe Gallery left hand side of the Wiangcome Hotel for the best breakfast and coffee and the Chay Naam next to the river for Thai food in the evening.

Houayxai to Chiang Khong

The plan is to cross over the Laos-Thai border at Houayxai as soon as the slow boat docks and, depending on time, either get a bus straight to Chiang Rai or stay overnight in Chiang Khong.

Accommodation options in Chiang Khong are Baan Rim Ta Ling Guesthouse and Homestay or the Chiang Khong River View Inn.

I need to be back in Bangkok on the 7th December. However it is the kings birthday on the 5th December and I am not sure what the transport situation is going to be like as its a Public Holiday

I may fly from Chiang Rai to BKK with Air Asia.

Louang Prabang to Houayxai

This bit of the trip is causing me some concern. I would really like to take the boat from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw and then overland to Luang Namtha and onwards to Houayxai. Unfortiunately I am just not going to have the time to do this unless I find Vang Vieng to be (pizzas and episodes of Friends etc) so bad that I leave after one day.

So it looks as it may have to be the slowboat from Louang Prabang to Houayxai staying overnight at Pakbeng. The boat leaves from the boat pier behind the Royal Museum tickets cost 88,000 kip to Pakbeng, where onward tickets can be bought for Huay Xai fore about the same price

Accommodation in Pakebeng it looks like a choice between Donevilasack Guesthouse or the Bounmy Guesthouse.

Vang Viang to Louang Prabang

After three or four days in Vang Viang the provisional idea is to head north to Louang Prabang.

This is already starting to look like a mad dash around Laos. I really think another week would have been better but I shouldn’t moan a lot of people never have the chance or money to do this type of thing.

The bus to Louang Prabang takes 6 - 8 hours (bus and road conditions permitting) arriving early afternoon or a minibus taking about 5 hours.

There seems to be no end of accommodation places I am looking at are:

Levady Guesthouse
Sisavangvong Rd Louang Prabang Tel: (071) 254 434, (020)
563 4769

Merry Guest House 1
Central Luang Prabang Louang Prabang Tel: (071) 252 325

Rattana Guesthouse
4/2 Baan Wat That Louang Prabang Tel: (071) 252 255

Plan to stay two or three days here before moving on towards Houayxai

Vientiane to Vang Viang

The next leg I am considering is from Vientiane to Vang Viang. I am in two minds about Vang Viang as some sites and articles I have read make it out to be well and truly a Kao Sahn Road/Pai scene. However all I have seen on the web and read in the Rough Guide to Laos indicate it is outstandingly beautiful.

I think I will give it a go I can also move on. It would be a pity to miss kayaking and tubing on the Nam Xong river and to do some caving.

The bus leaves from the main bus station in Vientiane by the morning market at about 06:30 – hopefully there is a later one.

Guesthouse wise I am looking at Le Jardin Organique or the Bungalows Riverside and Restaurant. Both these look good on the Travelfish website at around $10.

Nong Khai to Vientiane

Right I think I have finally decided on my route through Laos. I only have about 10 days in Laos to leave myself some time in Chiang Mai and Bangkok however there is always the possibility of flying Bangkok Airways from Luang Prabang to Bangkok if time is running out.

After getting over the jetlag and tiredness at Mutmee Guesthouse in Nong Khai I intend to cross the Friendship Bridge between Thailand and Laos using the Thai-Laos International Bus Service run by the transport company Thailand (30 baht) obtaining a 15 day Visa-on-Arrival at Lao immigration for $30. The journey apparently takes about an hour plus border formalities leaving Nong Khai at either 07:30 or 10:30. This would get me into Vientiane buy lunch time at the latest with plenty of time to find a “get how”.

I have had several recommendations for the Mali Namphu Guesthouse at about $16 for a room it sounds OK and will probably end up being my most expensive accommodation Laos. I plan to spend two or three days in Vientiane

Fellowship Bridge it is

After a bit of reading and some surfing I have decided I will have to enter Laos at the Fellowship Bridge. It is the only land crossing that will allow me to get a Visa-on-Arrival* I do not want to go from Don Muang Airport into central Bangkok and get a visa from the Lao Embassy it will just waste a day and I don't have that many.

I will just have to forsake the train, damn I do like those sleeper trains.

My flight arrives at 12:20 on the 24th November. There is an Air Asia flight from Don Muang to Udon Thani at 16:15 for the pricely sum of 908 baht (£13) including taxes. This gets me in to Udon Thani at 17:15. then its either a 700 baht taxi or the Thai Airways "Limousine" minibus service for 100 baht to Nong Khai.

Then its ovenight at the Mutmee Guesthouse.

Now just working out a rough plan for two weeks in Laos.

I do worry that this blog has started me planning this like a military operation, but I have always enjoyed the planning aspects of a trip and the background reading. If i was going for six months I probably wouldnt bother.

* I have since discovered that you can obtain Visa-on-Arrival at

The Friendship Bridge crossing (near Vientiane, bordering Thailand)

The Vientiane International Airport (Wattay Airport)

The Luang Prabang International Airport

Pakse International Airport

Nam Kan/Noeng Haet (Xieng Khuang province, bordering Vietnam, since March 2003)

Lak Sao (Bolikhamsao Province, bordering Vietnam, since March 2003)

Lao Bao (Savannakhet Province, bordering Vietnam, since March 2003)

Thakek (Savannakhet Province, bordering Thailand, since March 2003)

Chong Mek (Champasak Province, bordering Thailand, since March 2003)

Huay Xai (Bokeo Province, since March 2003)

Boten (Luang Namtha Province, bordering Thailand, since March
2003)

First thoughts on itinerary

I think it is going to be Laos. I dont think I can really do both Cambodia and Laos in the timescale I have available. My first thoughts were to try and atempt both but I would spend all day every day travelling with no extended stays in any one location to relax. Ankor Wat will have to wait for another trip (again!).

Its not very original but I think I will do the usual trip of Laos and take in Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Louang Prabang combined with a two or three day slowboat trip on the Mekong. Some of this will be backpacker central I know, especially Vang Vieng but I have always been a sucker for limestone karst scenery and some of the places I have liked most (Guillin, Halong Bay and Krabi) have a similar jagged teeth geology.

The rough plan is to arrive at Don Muang and either fly diectly up to Udon Thani with Air Asia or Nok Air and then cross over the Fellowship Bridge at Nong Khai or take the overnight train up to Chaing Mai and then bus it to Chiang Kong and enter Laos at Houayxai.

The flights are booked!

Unfortunately work commitments mean I can only travel for two and a half weeks although I would love to travel round South East Asia for for longer, perhaps one day.

Purchased a return ticket to Bangkok from Manchester without much idea of where I will go? Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar? I guess with such a short time I should really come up with some basic plan of where to aim for . I do not want it to be a mad dash but leave a few days for relaxing, perhaps two or three places would be best in 18 days. Anyway I will have a think over the next day or two and come up with a plan that I will probably never keep to anyway.

I disgress, not sure I have got the best deal but flights were booked with Travelsupermarket from the UK and came in at £424. I dont think this is a bad price for late November as this is the shoulder of the high season in Soth East Asia. I didn't really hunt around much nor chose an airline just took the cheapest. Lasts years jaunt to Thailand involved a fair bit of research into best airlines/value etc using Startrax. However although Qatar has a five star rating only one leg had Video-on-Demand and that didn't work on the return leg and the service was poor

Outbound

Wed 23-Nov-05 Klm Royal Dutch Airlines Flight: KL1082
Departure: Manchester Int'l - Manchester Time: 12:40 Terminal: 2
Arrival: Schiphol - Amsterdam Time: 15:10

Wed 23-Nov-05 Klm Royal Dutch Airlines Flight: KL877
Departure: Schiphol - Amsterdam Time: 19:40
Thu 24-Nov-05 Arrival: Bangkok Int'l - Bangkok Time: 12:20

Return

Thu 08-Dec-05 Airline: Klm Royal Dutch Airlines Flight: KL878
Departure: Bangkok Int'l - Bangkok Time: 23:30 Terminal: 2
Fri 09-Dec-05 Arrival: Schiphol - Amsterdam Time: 05:35

Fri 09-Dec-05Airline: Klm Royal Dutch Airlines Flight: KL1075
Departure: Schiphol - Amsterdam Time: 09:20
Fri 09-Dec-05 Arrival: Manchester Int'l - Manchester Time: 09:40

I hope this is not my plane.

Will get immersed in the Rough Guides to Laos and Cambodia and see what comes out. Will also have a good look at Travelfish and excellent resource for planning a trip in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia